Portuguese Debal Curry

One of the most unique aspects of the Melaka state is that it is the birthplace of the Kristang community, born of Malacca’s colonial heritage.

In the 15th century, Malacca was a bustling port, the hub for trade in South-East Asia and a powerful Sultanate in its own right. In 1511, the landing of the Portuguese in the fabled port heralded the start of the colonisation of Malacca – and ultimately, the birth of a completely new ethnic group.

Also known as Portuguese Eurasians, the Kristangs speak an eponymous language also known as Malacca Portuguese or Papia Cristang, a creole that developed from language contact among the Portuguese, Malay and other local languages; their cuisine is spice-rich and varied and has Portuguese, Malay, Indian and Chinese influences.

An emblematic of the Kristang culture and cuisine is Debal (or devil) curry. It’s a fiery-looking dish, although the spiciness level varies from family to family recipe. The common culinary thread that binds, and which gives is that distinct character is the pronounced tang of vinegar and the bite of mustard seeds.

Its origin can be traced to another former Portuguese conquest, Goa in India. You’ll find similarities between Goan vindaloo and Kristang Debal curry – in the use of white vinegar, turmeric and dried chillies, reflecting the Portuguese voyage. But this particular curry creation is also thickened with waxy candlenuts and fragranced with lemongrass and galangal, for a distinctive local flavour. Drawing on both its parent cultures for these influences, Debal curry is a unique culinary mirror of the Kristang community itself.

A rich and complex curry, the other building blocks of Debal are red chillies, shallots, garlic and ginger. The herbs and spices combine to form a rempah (spice) which starts the curry off.

While many Kristangs swear by a pork-based Debal, a chicken version is often enjoyed by those groups which cannot consume pork – particularly if you consume this dish in a restaurant. The other mainstay is potatoes; some cooks add vegetables such as cabbage to their own recipes. Lately, chicken sausages are also added.  Let's check out the recipe 

710gm chicken, cut into desired pieces
1 medium-size potato, cut into a few pieces
2 tbsp white vinegar
1 tsp mustard seeds (grounded coarsely)
1 tbsp light soy sauce (optional)
sugar and salt to taste

To grind into a paste
12 dried chillies, soaked in hot water for 15mins and drained
3 -4 fresh red chillies, deseed if don't want it too spicy
80gm galangal
160gm Bombay onions
15g ginger
15g fresh turmeric
6gm shrimp paste
3 candlenuts
70gm lemongrass, white part only
60gm shallots (6 pink shallots)
5 nips garlic

Saute the grounded paste with some oil. It's up to you to control the amount of oil used. Once the spices are cooked, add in chicken and potatoes. You can fry the potatoes before adding. Then mix in vinegar, mustard seeds and about 3 cups of water. Leave to simmer until chicken is cooked and potatoes soften. Add in salt and sugar to taste. Close fire once you get the desired consistency. The curry is best served the next day.